Celebrity Scents: The Bittersweet Smell of Success
I'm wading through marketing blurb that reads as though Heat magazine has been MagiMixed with a compendium of Victorian poetry. Which I suppose is entirely appropriate because these blurbs concern the modern reinvention of the gentle art of perfumery. The blending of oils, spices, herbs in delicate balance has, over recent years become an alchemy of brand, celebrity, fame, licensing, marketing and endorsement. A massive array of celebrity and personality led signature scents have been brought to market. Here is a - by no means exhaustive - sample: Britney Spears: Curious ("represents the young woman that pushes boundaries and revels in adventure") Britney Spears: Fantasy ("A love potion of sweet temptation that leaves a tantalizing trail of embracing sensuality.") Paris Hilton ("Celebrity...Trend Setter...Model...Beauty...Socialite...Star Jennifer Lopez: 'Glow' ("sexy, radiant, revealing") Jennifer Lopez: Love at 1st Glow ("'a cloud of innocent sensuality') Sarah Jessica Parker: Lovely ("Feminine. Classic. Romantic. Everlasting. A fragrance meant for every woman.") Tennis ace, Maria Sharapovas eponymous scent (contains: Pomegranate Leaf, Cassis Berries, Lemongrass, Gardenia, Jasmine, Magnolia, Dewy English Rose petals and - hard to believe but fantastic if true - Wimbledon Grass) There are also some very unlikely entrants into the market. Some seemingly ironic, others ridiculously hopeless: Jade Goody: "Shh...' ("sweet and enduring") Ronan Keating: 'Hope' ('I hope that one day we many have true peace on earth and that we can all help to make the world a better place for our children' - garden herbs and flowers) Old-timer Cliff Richard seems to have a very successful line in perfumery. Try his latest, 'Devil Woman' (tag line: 'So I came here to you, sweet lady/Answering your mystical call' from his hit of the same name) Even fictional characters can stretch their brand: Barbie ("a stylish fragrance for young girls"- yikes!). But we can't dwell on any of these, as we're here to sample 'Intimately' from David and Victoria Beckham. Packaged in black (men's - though pink text shows that we're talking modern maleness) and pink (women's). Both bear a 'dvb' motif that is pleasingly symmetrical on a textured gloss/matt triangle pattern relief. The bottles are the same - a glass cubed top pushed onto a golden atomiser that trails its tube in a wide squat cuboid well. 'Her' perfume is pale pink, 'His' is brownish yellow like a urine sample on a hot day (Obviously, this won't be appropriate when Rio Ferdinand designs his perfume. But perhaps could be right for Ben Johnson?) For men, the line promises 'to bring the confidence of masculinity with a "magnetic, provocative, cool -- yet never aloof" blend of grapefruit zest, bergamot and cardamom - perhaps inspired by mixing a weight watchers breakfast with last nights curry - an accurate picture of binge-and-purge confused male behavior? For women, the fragrance line aims to convey "the essence of Victoria known only to the people closest to her". It is a strange ambition, one that seems drawn from Victoria's relationship to the media. Perhaps it is a bid for the most self-referential perfume ever made. 'Intimately' is a romantic relationship made into smell form. Do you think you've ever met a couple who wear his'n'hers perfumes? (and if you have what kind of strange sex club were you visiting?) Or are they intended as some kind of secret signal for teenage pseudo-David's to sniff out pseudo-Victoria's on high streets and in nightclubs across Britain? Breath deep - that intoxicating smell is an ultra-modern concoction written in primitive, pre-language pheromones. It's a mist of media, a haze of communication. Perfume is design about emotion, expression, feeling sensation and identity. Many perfumes aspire to a single word: "Eternity", "Obsession", and so on. They reach towards states of being, of mind or abstract concepts. They sometimes suggest the romance of an all-consuming personality disorder. It's all a long way from photographs of Henry Cooper and Kevin Keegan hanging out in the locker room that once advertised Brut. Celebrity has moved from endorsement to becoming the product itself. The construction of celebrity identity is now stronger, more sophisticated, and bigger. It has grown so monstrously that it has consumed the product itself. This is a ravenous, expansive, capitalist vision of personality. 'Intimately' is manufactured by Coty Inc, the worlds largest fragrance company. Coty Beauty is the division which deals with personality based brands - developed in conjunction, with celebrities own management teams. Thus 'Beckham' is a brand that is licensed to Coty by 19 Management, the music, media & fashion empire run by Simon Fuller (of Spice Girls and X-Factor fame) who represent David and Victoria. With her music career stalled and his loss of the England armband and relegation to Real Madrid's bench, perhaps 'Intimately' will become a kind of public epitaph for David and Victoria written in the most ephemeral of media. You could call it a scent-optaph (or should it be monu-scent ?) for the most media mediated British couple of the last decade.
This fragrance opens with a sheer sophistication that personifies its creator, Paris Hilton.")
'Intimately', like all the other signature scents - is personality distilled into product. A slosh of amber liquid in sculpted glass within packaging presenting itself in an overdramatic, self absorbed, manner. It not only tell us what celebrities would like us to think of them, but also provide us with an insight into the strange mechanics of contemporary product design.
Significantly, the actual mechanism of puffed up; fame-gorged celebrity product isn't the celebrity himself or herself. Image and product - manipulated by Svengalis who are in league with military industrial complex - have consumed personality like some kind of sci-fi monster. They have taken over the host body and turned it into a factory where it produces facsimiles of itself. The process continues until the host becomes an exhausted, empty useless husk, appearing on where-are-they-now TV shows. Actions, image, skin, hair, history, even true love become devices in a production line of product. Ironically, the foregrounding of celebrity personality means the atomisation of identity into clouds of dispersing particles.
Posted by anothersam at October 4, 2006 1:11 AM.
Contents:
More Scenes In Cartoon Deserta
Generic Powerpoint Template: Delivering Bad News
The Best New Building In London
Book Review: The Infrastructural City
The Michael Jackson Monument Design Competition
Now Showing: John Baldessari Sings Sol LeWitt
Obscure Design Typologies: Life Guard Chairs
Osama bin Laden Cigarette Lighter: Novelty Products as Congealed Culture
Absurd Car Crashes: A Eulogy for J.G. Ballard
Now Showing: Dan Grahams 'Rock My Religion'
This Concrete 'O': On Serotonin, the M25, and the Motorik Picturesque
Church of the Literal Narrative
Philadelphias Floating Architecture
Now Viewing: Married To The Eiffel Tower
Le Corbusiers Image Hoard: Poeme Electronique
Giant American Signs: Original Learning from Las Vegas Footage
Giant Soviet Signs Cut Into Forests
Bricks Melted Into Icicles: Napalm Decorative
C-Labs 'Unfriendly Skies' & 'Bootleg' Volume
2 The Lighthouse: Self Storage & Architectural Hallucinations
Ceci N'Est Pas Une Pipe: Infrastructure as Architectural Subconcious.
Viva Sectional Cinematography!
Now Showing: The Installation of an Irreversible Axis on a Dynamic Timeline
Sim Seasons Greetings! The Rise of Neo-Winter
Geography in Bad, Festive Drag.
Simulations of Industry: High Tech Architecture and Thatcherism
From The Factory to the Allotment: Tony Wilson, Urbanist
Koolhaas HouseLife / Gan Eden: The Revenge of Architectural Media
Ruburb-ric: The Ecologies of the Farnsworth House
Telly Savalas Looks At Birmingham Redux
Acts of Un-Building: Timelapse Demolitions
Yard Filth: Next Years Hot Look
Stonehenge: A Black Hole At The Heart Of British Architecture
The Popemobile: Mechanised Robes & Motorised Architecture
The Secret Language of Surface
Information Fields: Agriculture as Media
My Bloody Valentine: Sound as Substance
A Cubist Copse: Gehrys Serpentine Pavilion
Spouting Off: Some Thoughts On The Fountainhead
Form Follows Dysfunction: Bad Construction & The Morality of Detail
Vintage Tradeshow Surrealism: International Grune Woche
Moving Houses: Buildings In Motion
Desktop Study: The Strange World of Sports Studio Design
Married to the Eiffel Tower: More Objectum Sexuals
60 Years of The Crazy Horse Memorial
Married to the Berlin Wall: "The Best and Sexiest Wall Ever Existed!"
Inflatable Icebergs: Sublimated Guilt Has Never Been So Fun
The Cinderella Effect: Phantom Architectures of Illumination
Two Deaths and a Retirement: The Strange Shape of British Architecture
If London Were Like New York: Antique Schizo-Manhattanism
If London Were Like Venice: Antique Geo-Poetic Speculations and Hydro-Fantasy
41 Hours in an Elevator: The Movie
NASA: Mapping the Moon with Sport
Lemon Squeezy: Design Tendencies after the Juicy Salif
The Nihilistic Beauty of Weapons Arranged in Patterns
Dogs: Britains Greatest Design Obsession
Detroit Sucks: The Motor Shows Last Gasp
Authentic Replicas: Football and the Franchising of Place
Folk Football: Landscape, Space and Abstraction
A Wishing Well with a Fat Up Pipe
The Camoufluers and the Day-Glo Battleship
Pseudoccino: Instant Coffee Foam
Blown Up: More Inflatable Military Stuff
On Christmas Trees, Folk Forests and Staples Office Supplies
Hampton Courts Shrouded Sculptures
Named Fabric: 20 Sponsored Pieces of Architecture at the New Museum
Form Follows Felony: The Secret Home of the Un-Dead Canoeist.
Architectural Magazines: Paranoid Beliefs, Public Autotheraphy - More on Clip/Stamp/Fold
James Bond Lives Next Door: Suburban Imagery as Industry
The Ghost of Christmas Futurism
Chapters for an Imaginary Book About Architecture
Shrouded Plinth - Urban Striptease
In the Night Garden - Surreal Landscape of Nostalgia
Kim Jong II, The Great Architect
Place Faking: Instant Heritage for the Thames Gateway
The Marc Bolan Memorial Crash Barrier.
Enjoy The Silence: Bose Noise Cancelling Headphones
Telly Savalas Looks At Birmingham
In Search of Britains Vehicular History
Scary Suburbanism: Why Horror is at Home in the Suburbs
I Like Your Manifesto, Lets Put it to the Test-o
How to Become a Famous Architect
Northampton - Sci-fi Pop Planning Promotion
Advertising Central Milton Keynes
The Velvet Underground at the Glass House
Duplikate: Kate Moss on the Production Line of Individuality
Hollow Inside: Starbucks Foam and the Rise of Ambiguous Materials
Revisions to the Architecture of Hell
Crufts: Dogs, Design and Aesthetic Genetics
Eos Airlines: Executive Bubbles over the Atlantic
Google Earths Vertiginous Mapping
Church of the Ascension and Descension
Reyner Banham Loves Los Angeles
Reading Lines: Skateboarding and Public Space
Chris Cornish: Prototyping History
The Most Visited Location in the UK
Anything to Feel Weightless Again: The Cargo Lifter and the Tropical Island Resort
'Its beauty will know no season'
2000 Years of Non Stop Nostalgia. Or How Half Timbering Made Me Whole Again.
Backpeddling into the Future: The Historical-Futurism of British Architecture
Miss Selfridges' Feeling for Fake Snow. The Oxford St. Lights and Why We Need Artificial Winter
New Tory Logo: A Hazy Shade of Politics
Jeff Koons, Rem Koolhaas, Hans Ulrich Obrist at the Serpentine
Celebrity Scents: The Bittersweet Smell of Success
Imperfect Pitch - Football, Space and Landscape
Product Placement: Making the Impossible Possible
Suburban Growth: Matthew Moores Field of Dreams
Perfect Sound Forever: The Secret Function of High End Stereos
A Little Light Product Placement
Some Advice To A Young Designer
Useless Proclamations for a Beautiful City
Topsy Turvy VSBA: Inverted Heros of an Upside Down Avant Guard
Everything Flows: ideological cartography
How Geostationary Was My Valley?
The Psychotic Utopia of the Suburbs and the Suburbanisation of War.
In a Lonely Place - Under Construction
Mach 3 Nitro Gel - Design that's foaming at the mouth.
Marchitecture. Architectural things to do in London this March
What happens when you cross a pen with a car?
Football Pitch: Best of British
The First Cut is the Cheapest - Blenheim Palace: pop architecture that goes for the jugular
Holiday Snap II : Giant Glowing French Balls
Holiday Snap: Canadian War Memorial, Vimy, France
Anatomy of an Architectural News Story
Its All About the Big Benjamins
Poundbury, unexpectedly, in the rain
The Exploding Concrete Inevitable. Lou Reed and the Casa da Musica
Untitled (Plastic Sack and Timber)
Berlin 1945 - The Obscene Picturesque
Interview: Jeremy Deller & Alan Kane
An Incredible Smell of Roasting Coffee
Langlands & Bell - The House of Osama Bin Laden
Architectural Criticism gets Sharp
Venturi, Scott Brown and my love that dare not speak its name.
Douglas Coupland: Design and Fiction
Christopher Dresser at the V&A
Fugitives and Refugees' - Chuck Palahniuk
Just What is it That Makes Yesterdays Homes So Different, So Appealing?
Everything Counts - The Sound of Geography Collapsing.
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